Joe, once again amused the assembled multitudes by borrowing the Icelandic flight attendants coat and perky little hat, and paraded up and down the aisle with a cheery song and a cocktail. Inga, who must know everyone in Iceland, spent part of the flight chatting with the pilots, and making announcements over the PA system.

Transferring back to the hotel, everyone changed quickly for our last night out in Reykjavík. Dinner was at Idno, an upscale restaurant near the town hall and the small lake known merely as Tjörn, or "pond". Idno was packed to the gills, as this was the night of Reykjavík's annual Cultural Night, a celebration of the arts and the anniversary of the founding of the city.

Upstairs, our banquet room awaited, with views over Tjörn and the city. Soup, salad and entrees were good, but not exceptional. We sat with our friends Gayle Scholl and Fergus O'Carroll, and Marcy Morton and her friend Christen Riad. Many toasts followed, including a heartfelt birthday wish to Karyn's father, Joe Kozo. The excitement of the city celebration was electric, and we could hear the sounds of the street filtering up through the open windows.

Dinner over, we headed out to watch a spectacular fireworks display. Standing on the street near the Hotel Borg, we were impressed by the artistic quality of the display. Crowds of residents hurried by, parents with their children, teenagers out for a lark, punky young men and women, already half in the bag clutching bottles. Broken glass was everywhere, for Icelanders abandon much self-restraint on joyous occasions such as this.